By Sarah Veblen

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband. Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands. Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacings, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing. The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.

Waistband materials. Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of sewing your own clothing is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures.  Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

Designer Tricks for Waistbands

 Faced waistbands. Most waistbands are cut on the fold (the waistband fabric on the garment side is creased along the top edge of the waistband, folding to the inside of the garment). Consider facing a waistband if the garment fabric is either bulky or scratchy. A faced waistband is not cut on the fold; rather, it's cut in two pieces and has a seam at the top edge of the waistband. By choosing a light- to medium-weight fabric to face the waistband with, you'll reduce the total thickness; or if the fashion fabric is scratchy, you can choose a soft-feeling fabric. In either case, both parts of the faced waistband will need to be interfaced.

Extensions on both sides of the opening.  Patterns are usually developed so that the waistband is flush with the garment seam on one side of the opening, but has an under-lap or extension on the other side of the opening. For ease of future alterations, creating an extension on both sides of the opening will allow you to easily increase the circumference of the waistband; to increase the garment circumference at the waist, let out at the side seams or sew the darts smaller.

Let your waistband be a design element.  If your garment would look good with an interesting waistband, consider adding beading, machine or hand embroidery, or some other surface embellishment. Or experiment piecing the fashion fabric together in an interesting way, perhaps using other fabrics as well. If you enjoy small amounts of pattern work, make a faced waistband and create an interesting shape along the top edge of the waistband. Once your imagination gets going, you'll find many ways to make your waistbands look unique.

Making and Applying Straight-of-Grain Waistbands

Folded Waistband:

1. Pin and cut out waistband pattern using fashion fabric, carefully following grainline indicated on pattern.

2. Pin and cut out waistband pattern using selected interfacing. Follow grainline indicated on pattern if interfacing material has a grainline. Apply interfacing to wrong side of waistband.

3. With right sides together, pin waistband to garment, matching all pattern markings and notches. Stitch garment to waistband using seam allowance designated on pattern and securing stitches at beginning and end of garment.

4. Trim out approximately one-half of the seam allowance where waistband has been sewn to garment.

5. Press garment and waistband seam allowances toward waistband.

6. Working from right side of garment, fold and press waistband wrong sides together, carefully measuring so that waistband is a consistent width.

7. Turn each end of waistband so right sides are together, sew short ends using seam allowance indicated on pattern and securing stitches, and trim.

8. Turn waistband to right side, using a point turner if necessary. On extension end of waistband, press remaining seam allowances up along the seam line, trimming if necessary, and slip stitch in place. (Note: pattern instructions will usually indicate that this step be sewn on the machine. Use the method that gives you the most control and the best-looking finished results.) 9. The waistband can be finished using one of the following methods.

Stitch-in-the-Ditch by Machine

Clean finish the raw edge of the waistband. (Note: We used a serger set in a 3-thread configuration. You could also use another type of stitch such as a zigzag stitch, or bind the edge with a self-made or purchased bias binding.)

Starting in the middle of the garment and keeping the waistband flat, press and pin the waistband in place; the finished edge of the waistband will fall below the waist seam. At the garment openings, turn the finished edge under so that it makes a smooth transition between lying flat and angling up to the edge of the garment.

On right side of garment, machine stitch in the crack formed by the waist seam (stitch-in-the-ditch). If necessary, slip stitch the transitional area of the waistband.

Slip Stitch by Hand

Turn remaining edge toward waistband and press. Slip stitch in place.

Faced Waistband:

1. Change folded waistband pattern to a faced waistband by drawing a line 5/8" beyond fold line to create seam allowance; cut along this line and discard smaller strip of pattern. 2. Pin and cut out waistband pattern using a single piece of fashion fabric, carefully following grainline indicated on pattern.

3. Pin and cut out waistband pattern using a single piece of facing fabric, carefully following grainline indicated on pattern.

4. Pin and cut out waistband pattern using a double layer of selected interfacing. Follow grainline indicated on pattern if interfacing material has a grainline. Apply interfacing to wrong sides of fashion fabric and facing fabric.

5. Pin right sides of fashion fabric and facing fabric together along one long edge and stitch in a 5/8" seam. Trim out approximately one-half of seam allowance and press seam allowances toward facing side of waistband.

6. Understitch to prevent facing from rolling to right side of waistband. (To understitch: working from the right side of the facing fabric, stitch through the facing fabric and the seam allowances.)